For the last decade, J.Crew has been my go-to shop for swimsuits. I liked their styles, their prints, how they fit and how well they held up over the years. Unfortunately, I've been pretty disappointed in their offerings the past couple of years. And while I looked at other designers, I've never found anything that I've liked as much as my J.Crew suits, even with though I'm not thrilled with them either these days.
When I signed up to do the RTW Fast for 2018, the thing that made me the most nervous was "what am I supposed to do about a new swimsuit for our summer trips?!" The idea of sewing a swimsuit was terrifying. I've always said I would never sew swimwear because it's not just a cute piece of clothing it needs to do a very specific job and it needs to do it well! On top of that, everyone will tell you how HARD it is to sew a swimsuit. The fabric is slippery! Getting the right fit is tricky! Sewing elastic is scary! I mean, the whole thing sounded frustrating at best, but if I wanted a new bikini for our Hawaii trip this year, I was going to have to make one to stay true to the rules of the Fast.
For my very first foray into sewing swimwear, I opted to try the P4P Take the Plunge suit (afflink). This is actually a one piece suit with a ruched front bodice and then a variety of mix and match back and bottom options.
I, myself, am a bikini girl, so I set out to make the bikini hack option, that is outlined on the P4P Take the Plunge hacks blog post.
My final selections for my suit were the low cross-back top with a side-ruched bottom. I opted for a deep kelly green swim knit from Joann's for my main fabric and a black lining fabric from The Fabric Fairy. I also used cotton swimwear elastic from Joann's, since I knew that it would be easier to stretch it for the ruching on the sides of the bottoms and a 3/4" clear plastic bikini top closure.
Once I had the pattern taped together and my options selected, I got to work. For sizing, I went strictly by my measurements and cut a straight Small for the top and a straight Medium for the bottom. The only change I made to the pattern was to lower the rise of the bottom by 2", based on comparing the pattern with a bikini bottom I already owned and liked. Ultimately, I wound up lowering the rise of the ruched outer fabric another 1.5" just before attaching it to the lining because it looked better. I didn't make any other changes and followed the pattern and blog post instructions like they were the gospel. ;)
This swimsuit is fully lined with no exposed seams and all of the edges are finished with swim elastic and then topstitched. There is an entire page included that gives instructions on how to add additional support to both the top and bottom. I only chose to add bra cups, but they do include options for adding power mesh for the cups and across the tummy as well as under bust elastic for the cups.
As I've come to expect from P4P, the instructions and tutorial pictures were clear and complete. Again, I've never sewn a swimsuit and I felt like I was led through the process in an easy to follow manner. The only mistake I made was I originally attached the back loops too low on the back bodice. I misread the picture and just mucked it up. I had to unpick the serged seam, fix the placement and then sew it all back together. Don't do that! LOL
And this is where I was surprised. You see, I've been sewing with knit fabrics - some well behaved, but plenty that were slippery messes - for years now and I'm very comfortable with them. I'm comfortable with serging on elastic and then topstitching it down. I know how to ease fabrics together along a curve. I know how to gather knit fabric and then sew it to a non-ruched piece. When I finally started sewing this bikini together - the one that had terrified me for a very long time - I was already comfortable with all of the techniques needed to complete a suit that looks like it is ready to wear. Was it tedious? ABSOLUTELY! Having to baste everything and then attaching elastic to almost everything is time consuming and can't really be rushed. Sewing this suit was a ton of little steps that added up to a big chunk of time. But was it hard? No, not really. The sewing steps were pretty straightforward and things that I had already done several times over with other projects, just not on a swimsuit.
So, while I was pleasantly surprised with the sewing and the aesthetics of the project, we all know that unless it fits and looks good on a person, it doesn't really matter how it looks laying on the sewing table.
I finished the ruched bottom first and the top the next morning. I tried them on together, looked in the mirror and ....
didn't hate it. In fact, I liked it. A LOT.
YOU GUYS, MY FIRST SWIMSUIT THAT I EVER SEWED WAS A COMPLETE SUCCESS!!!
It's been a few days and I'm still in shock. It fits me like a glove. It's comfortable. I love it's sort of retro vibe that also feels fresh and modern for 2018. I can run after my kids in the top and feel completely secure, but I am also excited to lounge poolside with my husband in Vegas and feel chic and sophisticated.
If you are looking for swimsuit pattern, I cannot recommend this one enough. It is such a well drafted swimsuit and one that is flattering on many different shapes and sizes (check out the tester pics on the pattern itself - such a lovely bunch beautiful women!) I have at least one more of this exact suit planned and may even try out the other bikini top option they cover in the hacks blog post.
I'm so glad that the RTW Fast finally gave me the additional motivation to just get over myself and sew a swimsuit already! I had no idea the first one would go so well and now I feel confident in going forward and sewing additional suits in fun prints and different styles. Having the freedom to sew what I want to wear to the pool instead of being tied to whatever I can find in store is a huge accomplishment and something that I will be glowing over for some time to come.
Yay for your FIRST swimsuit!!! I will have to revisit this pattern since I MIGHT be sewing one this year. I have had the same one piece for YEARS, and need a new one, but I don't swim often enough to replace it. Anyhow, you are right that the skills you build transfer with each project. I hope that will be the case for me should I make a swimsuit this year. You will look wonderful as you vacation!!
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