Burda 06-2010-133: Bright and Fishy

I really like wearing bright colors and prints when we're in Hawaii. Something about the ocean and the beautiful flowers and plants makes me want to drape myself in turquoise, pink, blue and any other bright shade I can find. So, when I saw this teal golfish print from Patty Young, I had to have it and earmarked it for a mini-skirt.

I loved the Take 1, Make 4 skirt section in Burda's June issue and since I'm trying to branch out from using McCall's 3830 over and over, I tried skirt 133, just a basic mini. I left out the pockets thinking I didn't need any extra stuff around my hips. I'm glad I did as I had to alter the hip curve a bit after cutting it out and the pockets would have just complicated matters.

I like that the straight size 40 sits below my belly button (M3830 sits higher on my waist), but still fits well through the hips. I used french seams on the sides, hem tape and bias tape on the remaining raw edges. After fixing the hip curve, this one is being added alongside M3830 as a TNT pattern!

I freely admit that this skirt is what some of you would call a "craft project." I mean, really, bright quilting cotton with huge goldfish on it is about as far from elegant and sophisticated as you can get. And yet, I kind of love it. It's so wacky and ridiculous that I can't help but smile when I look at it. I'm pretty excited to bust it out on our vacation while enjoying a tropical drink, watching the sunset. I asked Jim what he really thought of it and he swears he likes it. I figure even if everyone else thinks I'm nuts for wearing it, at least the cutie that I'm with is a-okay with it! ;)

B5466: Spring into Fall?

This is a project I completed in the spring, but never got around to blogging. Why? Well, mostly because I finished it, wore it once and decided it wasn't working for me. Don't you hate it when that happens? Put in all this work on a garment and then find yourself not happy with it by the time it's done. Ugh.

The pattern itself was fine - I made view B, a straight skirt with a narrow waistband. I originally cut the 14, but wound up taking out enough width through the waist/hips that it was more like a 12. The revised skirt fit well through the hips, but the waistband was then too snug. I fiddled with it and sort of fixed it, but it still sat higher on my waist than I like. If I were to make this again, I'd cut a 14 at the waist and then taper in to a 12 around the hips. For this pear-shaped gal, that is so counter to the adjustments that I ususally have to make to patterns. So weird! I added a lining because the fabric felt a bit too flimsy without one and used lace for the hem. The actual construction of this skirt is probably one of my best - all of the finishes are clean and feel very RTW. Which made it even more of a bummer that I was so unhappy with the finished product.

I originally purchased the fabric for a spring/summer skirt. I thought it would be pretty paired with grey heels or light brown sandals and a tank/cardigan combo for work. I even went so far as to pick up a new pastel pink cardigan to match the print so I was all set to have a new outfit to wear to work. Unfortunately, none of my shoe and top combinations seemed to work. My shoe choices all felt too dark or too clunky. The skirt sat so high, that the tanks looked funny tucked in, but looked sloppy or too tight left out. I was at a complete loss on how to style the poor thing to make it feel right. Hence, it was relegated to the back of the closet.

We had our fair share of chilly days this summer (so odd here in SoCal) and I pulled this skirt out on one of those mornings, hoping to give it one more shot before I retired it for good. Something about the cool weather and this skirt finally clicked and I ran for my tall boots. Wouldn't you know, flat boots and a 3/4 length sleeve top gave this skirt a whole new look - one that I felt good in! I think the colors had me hung up on making this a spring skirt, whereas for some reason, it works much better as a fall transition piece - even if the colors don't so much read "fall." What's nice is that the lining makes this lightweight skirt suprisingly warm, and will feel even moreso if I pair it with a cozy grey or pastel sweater for a different look.

Now that we are truly in summer temps here, I've put the skirt away for the time being. But, I'm so looking forward to dragging it back out at the first hint of chilly mornings. I guess I was getting a very early jump on fall sewing and I didn't even know it.

Burda 01-2010-104: The summer of skirts

This skirt pattern has been making its way across the sewing blogosphere with some pretty fantastic results. Amanda, Kristine, Eugenia and Ann have all made some really lovely and downright covet-worthy versions of this skirt. Some even more than one *cough*Eugenia*cough*. ;)

This is actually the pattern that finally convinced me to sign up for a Burda subscription. I own a RTW skirt that is absolutely identical to this pattern (the tan skirt below). I love it, but it's now a touch too big and just try finding something like this in store right now. Yeah, not happening. By owning the pattern, I could just make my own version whenever the spirit moved me. Woot! Of course, that still meant that I had to track down the February issue as my subscription wouldn't include it. Thanks to ebay, I found it for the fairly reasonable price of $15. Yay! [Since then, Burda's site underwent a pretty huge transformation, including a lot of magazine patterns now available for purchase as single downloads. If you missed this issue and want your own version of this skirt, check it out here.]

I traced off this pattern a good month ago and then never had time to actually cut it out and sew it up. As this was my first time sewing a fitted Burda garment and not knowing exactly how their sizing would work for me, I decided to make a wearable muslin before cutting into the really good stuff. I purchased this stretch cotton sateen panel print from Fashion Fabrics Club with the idea that it would make a cute tropical-inspired skirt for our Hawaii vacation this fall.

After seeing the fabric all laid out, I found that the large blue/navy leaves would work best for the skirt and I planned to keep the wave border in my stash to whip up a few O+S lazy days skirts for friends later down the road.

All of the pieces were cut single layer so I could ensure the print was placed exactly where I wanted it to be. The downside of this was I had no idea just how off grain this fabric was until I went to fold up the wave border sections. I should have taken a picture, but no joke, it was off by at least 3/4". UGH. Needless to say, the cute little waves hit the circular file because there was no way they could be salvaged. I went ahead with my skirt though to see if I could make it work. And indeed, I think it turned out quite well.

I pretty much sewed this straight from the pattern. The only small change I made was taking off 1" total from the side seams. After getting most of it sewn up, I realized that this skirt actually looked like something I could wear to the office as it was more Tommy Bahama than Hilo Hattie. I was glad that I had cut the longer length (version A) initially, as this gave me more wiggle room to give it an office-appropriate hem. I also took pains with this version to finish all of the raw edges with bias tape.

Even though the print is off-grain, I was still pretty thrilled with the final skirt. I wore it to the office this week and got tons of compliments. Even better, it was comfortable and I felt really good wearing it. That's a total win in my book.

All of this meant that the pattern was approved and it was time to cut into the good stuff. And here is where I need to make a confession. I've always loved the madras print skirts that J crew releases most years during the spring and summer, but my child-bearing hips and um, "muscular" thighs means that I never buy them. They're just too short, too tight and generally a hot mess on my body. So, when I saw Ann's madras print mini, I about died. I mean, this was totally my chance to own a madras print skirt that actually fit *me*. So, I did what any good blog-reading seamstress would do. I left a nice comment on her post and promptly ran off to her fabric site and scooped up my own bit of madras fabric with full intentions to completely copy her skirt. :D And I did just that. Sure the colorway may be different, but basically here is my homage to Ann and her madras skirt.

She was not lying when she said that this fabric washes up beautifully. It's super soft and light and absolutely perfect for summer. I didn't want to lose the drape of this fabric, so I just pinked the side and back seams (would have used a serger to finish them off, but um, don't have one!) and used bias tape to finish the pockets and inner waistband. Paired with my J crew flip flops and a coordinating tank, I feel super preppy and summery.

After sewing with the Big 4 patterns, it's really nice to be able to use a size chart to determine what size to sew and have it turn out well without any major adjustments. So far, Burda, even with their sparse instructions and lack of diagrams, is quickly moving to the top of my favorites list. I really can't wait to make more garments from the magazine. It's also nice to have another TNT skirt pattern in my arsenal (aside from McCalls 3830). Like Eugenia, I don't know that I'm ready to quit this pattern quite yet. There may very well be another version (or two) that I make before we say goodbye to summer.

McCalls 3830 Revisited - Third time's the charm

I first tried this skirt pattern earlier this year to rip-roaring success. However, in the meantime, I started the Peak 10 program, got my butt in shape and went down 2 dress sizes. In the middle of the program, I finally got around to sewing what I thought would be another successful version of this skirt. Unfortunately, I didn't really take into account my shrinking body and my grey denim version fell flat. Too big and I wasn't excited enough about the fabric choice to take the time to make it smaller. It's now been packed away with the other boxes of clothing that are too big for me.

After that mess, I figured I'd drop down one size and things would perfect. Out came the lovely black stretch denim from Emma One Sock - a bit of a splurge - and I whipped up another skirt. While it was wearable, it still felt too big and stretched out around the booty after wearing it. It also didn't feel nearly as versatile as I was hoping it would be. For cripes sake! I've worn it a few times, but it's at the back of my closet now, waiting for fall and winter to make another appearance. And if I'm being honest, it probably even need a few alterations if I'm going to really love it. Le sigh.

This photo was taken about halfway through my weightloss, so while it looks okay here, it's quite a bit looser now.

At this point, I'd realized that my body had like, you know, really changed and all. I re-took my measurements and it was pretty clear that I needed to drop down one more size. I was sorely missing my original dark denim skirt - I had no idea how much of a wardrobe hole I had filled with that simple little skirt until it didn't fit any longer - so I opted to remake it in the same fabric. The only changes on this version was using an invisible zipper to give it an even cleaner look and dropping the hem by about a 1/2 inch.

Guess what folks - I hit the skirt jackpot again! :D (I'm even in love with the back view on this version.) I've worn this skirt at least once a week since I finished since it works equally well with tall boots, flat sandals or wedges. This is such a staple for me now, just as important in my weekly wardrobe as my favorite jeans and black work pants. I'm now quite sure how I lived without. Truly folks, I can't recommend this skirt enough! Especially in a nice dark stretch denim. Make one and just see how much you wear it - you can thank me later. ;)

Now that I have the sizing down, I have a few more versions I'd like to make. It's especially crucial this summer as I've decided to live in skirts and dresses since finding new pants to replace the 20+ pairs I've packed away is proving to be an impossible task. Thank goodness for living in Southern California, where pants just aren't necessary for summer and the vast majority of the fall.

McCall's 3830- aka The Straight Skirt Holy Grail!

I get all sorts of catalogues at the house for various clothing companies. I typically thumb through the ones from Nordstrom's and J. Crew, sometimes Talbots for shoes and the rest usually end up in the recycling bin without ever being opened. For some reason, this summer, I actually flipped through the Boden USA cataloge and all sorts of fun stuff caught my eye. But, the one thing that really stuck out was this denim pencil skirt.

I loved the color and the simple style, but knew that buying it was out of the question for several reasons: a) pencil skirts typically hate me, b) even if they didn't, I have no idea what their sizing is like and don't really care to investigate since it's all mail-order and c) it was $78 for a simple skirt. Thank God this caught my eye over the summer and not the spring because instead of being bummed, I decided to just make my own, using the Boden skirt as a handy inspiration piece.

After having good luck with McCall's basic a-line skirt pattern, I thought I'd try their straight skirt pattern (3830)that is so beloved on Pattern Review.

For the fabric, I had a dark lightweight stretch denim in the stash from making baby dresses this summer and had thankfully bought 2 yards because I liked it so much. Let me stop for a moment and expouse on how much I love this fabric. It's a really lovely dark navy with no distress marks, a nice stretch and I'm guessing some poly blended in, as well. Why? Well, I washed it 4 times to make sure all the excess dye was off of it and the sucker didn't fade in the least. At $4/yard, it feels like such a bargain. Love it! I'm going back to the shop to restock later this week.

I knew I wasn't going to line this skirt, but I still wanted the inside to be pretty. I was originally going to use a navy cotton for the facing and all navy notions, but when my local Joann's was out of navy bias tape, I completely switched gears. I keep walking by this vaguely psychedelic butterfly/flower print in the quilting cotton secion of Joann's and I'm drawn to it every time. There is no way it would work for a garment, at least for me, but as a facing, it was perfect. To tie it together, I used purple bias tape to finish off the back seams and navy hem tape at the bottom. The sides were sewn with french seams.

After all was said and done, I LOVE THIS SKIRT!! LOVE IT! Yes, I realize I'm ridiculously excited about a very simple garment, but I can't help it. I had a feeling that this was going to be a rousing success from the start and it's really nice to have it turn out even better than I had expected. With the exception of the shorter hemline and no belt loops, I think it's a good replica of the Boden skirt. And it fits me like a glove, straight out of the envelope! I love that it pairs equally well with tall boots and flats, sweaters and tank tops, for the office and for play. Such a simple piece, but one that I pretty much want to live in year-round.

The inside makes me as giddy as the outside. I know that no one will be able to see the fun print or that there is not a single raw edge to be found on this skirt, but that doesn't make me any less thrilled about it.

I'm planning several more versions of this skirt - I'm thinking one in black denim, one in a lightweight khaki cotton and maybe a few prints for summer? I've totally found my holy grail straight skirt pattern. :)

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ETA: I forgot to post the cost for this skirt. Here's the breakdown:
Pattern - $2
Fabrics - $7
Notions - $6

Total cost - less than $20. :)

In all honesty though, I'm not really sewing to necessarily save money. It's great when things turn out to be so cost effective, but I have a few upcoming projects that aren't going to be inexpensive. However, this is a hobby for me. I love learning how to sew and being able to make things that actually fit my body, instead of trying to squeeze my body into something the manufacturers deem a "normal" size. Sometimes those garments are going to be simple basics made up with inexpensive fabrics and other times, it's going to be fun dresses and such in finer fabrics like wool wovens, jerseys and sweater knits. Those fabrics aren't cheap, but man are they gorgeous. :)

Vogue 7937 - In which I learn to add a lining

As I started researching and buying patterns that looked interesting to me, I could not for the life of me figure out why formal, work-appropriate skirts that were specified to be made in a wool or other fine fabric did not include a lining. Hello! When was the last time you saw a tailored wool or silk skirt in the store that wasn't lined. Right, I can't remember either. I quickly realized that I'd have to add my own darn lining, but since I was still learning the basics, I thought that a couple of one-on-one lessons might make the process go a bit smoother.

I chose this Vogue skirt pattern mostly because I loved the double back-vent. After reading some reviews on the pattern, it also seemed like it wasn't as fitted as it appears on the pattern, which I thought would be a good thing.

My fabric of choice was a camel and cream herringbone wool from Michael Levine. For the lining, I used a very lightweight cotton/silk blend in off-white. I have an overabundance of dark colored skirts and pants in my closet and am actively trying to add a few in lighter shades to break it up a bit. I also thought this piece could work for multiple seasons due to its light color.

I measured myself, cut the size that I thought was correct and brought the cut pieces to my lesson. I actually started this skirt at the beginning of fall, before I really knew how to determine sizing. Make a long story short, my instructor was very concerned that I cut a size too small in the skirt. After sewing the front panel together, I had similar concerns. Gah! Inbetween lessons one and two, I traipsed back out to the store, bought more fabric and recut the skirt in the next size up.

I'm so glad I opted for one-on-one instruction for this. I learned a ton of good tips for sewing skirts, including a lapped zipper, how to correctly sew a back vent, and how to line a skirt that doesn't come with lining instructions. I also built a good working relationship with this instructor - helpful as I'm taking more classes from her this year.

Once the outer fabric was sewn together, I tried it on and wouldn't you know, it was too big. [Really though, sizing has proved to be a huge issue for me.] I had to take it in a good 3/4" and still after the facing and everything was added, it's sitting lower than I prefer for my skirts and the hips feel too loose. By the time everything was complete except for the hem, I had just lost all steam for this project. I set it aside for the rest of the year, but finally, this weekend, I sat down and just finished it already.

After all of that work, I like it alright, but I don't love it. :( I'm having trouble putting my finger on it, but something about it just doesn't sit quite right with me. I think part of it is that it still feels too big for me. Because of this, I'm really limited in what I can wear with it and still look sleek. I tried on a ton of sweaters, but it really works best with a very slim-fitting turtleneck and a pair of high-heeled tall boots to offset the length, which quickly becomes dowdy with flats of any kind.

Sigh. I'm half tempted to go ahead and sew up the next size down that I've already cut, adjust the seam allowances (if necessary) and see if the smaller version isn't a better fit. My guess is that it will be better, but I'm a bit reluctant to put all that time into an exact copy of this skirt and then have it turn out poorly. We'll see.

All in all, I still think it's a good pattern and I'm bummed that I'm not more excited about the finished product. I haven't completely written off making another one, but I think there are some other skirt patterns I'd like to try first.

McCalls 3341: Little Brown Skirt

Since I haven't started any new projects yet for 2010 (this weekend that is going to change), I thought I'd catch up on sharing a few things I made in 2009, but were never posted.

My first real garment sewing class was for an a-line skirt in the fall. While I had made the Amy Butler Barcelona skirt this summer, that project was a much simpler design. The skirt for the class would cover how to properly sew a dart, set a center back zipper, do french seams and to ease in a facing. I had fiddled with a few of these by myself over the summer while I was sewing baby dresses, but learning the right way to do it made things so much easier.

I chose a brown cotton-poly-spandex blend for this project. One side is shiny and the other is matte and since neither I nor the instructor could decide which was the "right" side, I chose the matte side. Up to that point, I had been sewing with a lot of quilting cottons and while I love them, it seemed like it was time to add a nice basic piece to my wardrobe. Surprisingly, one of the other students gave me the side-eye and questioned why I chose that fabric. Even after explaining that this was for a work basic, she indignantly replied "Well, my skirt is for work, too." Okay, look, I love a good floral just like the next person, but a bright pink rose print is not what I would call a "basic." Just an odd conversation to have in a sewing class.

Anyways, I was really happy with the final product. I love how nice the inside looks with the french seams and that the blind hem actually worked. I'm still perfecting my zippers, but they did improve by leaps and bounds with this project. Lastly, I think I'm *finally* getting better about choosing the right size and this skirt reflects that. I've worn it a ton this fall as it pairs well with my riding boots, which I have been living in. I also am enjoying the fact that it is so comfortable, mostly because it actually fits and doesn't pull across my hips. A miracle!

I start class again this week and I'm really excited. I've missed it more than I thought I would.